Stephen Tapply Photography
Besisahar to Bhulebhule

Starting the Annapurna Circuit from Besisahar, almost everyone walks along the dry, dusty road to Khudi. However, there's a really lovely alternative route on the other side of the river, with the added attraction of an unusual river crossing, on a metal cage and rope contraption.

From Hotel Trivani, in the second part of Besisahar, take the alley on the right side of the road, next to the shop, and walk down to the river. It's fairly straightforward, but if you're at all unsure, ask the locals, and mime pulling yourself across the river!

The cage sits over the middle of the river - pull it to you and keep hold of the rope while you get in. (It works best with two.) Let go and you'll trundle to the middle of the river. Now pull up to the other side, and, keeping hold of the rope, get out.

The path leads directly away from the river to two houses, then there's a paved path through the fields on the left. Just before it changes into a dirt path going uphill, turn left again along what looks like a stream bed. Follow the path around the hill - it drops down to the river and an interesting but secure bridge. On the other side of the river bear slightly right and up the side of the rice paddies. Drop down the other side to the stream, and follow the path until it meets the new bridge - don't cross the bridge unless you want to go to Khudi instead. The route is now very straightforward - stay on the right side of the river until you reach Bhulebhule.

Almost everyone you meet will look surprised to see you, and ask where you're going. (And the children will still greet you with, "namaste, pen?")

Important Note
Immediately after the monsoon, you might want to check with the locals in Besi whether the ‘interesting but secure’ bridge was washed away - and whether it has been rebuilt. It's quite important for several communities, so it does get rebuilt fairly promptly. And it's not an insuperable problem, it's just that you might end up getting your feet wet. (And you already knew to take your boots and socks off if you have to wade a little.)


Copyright © Stephen Tapply